Cleanse, exfoliate, tone, mask, steam, hydrate, rejuvenate. All terms I'm sure we're familiar with. Whatever happened to simplicity?
Have a glance at your cosmetic shelf. Countless toners, anti-aging serums, exfoliators, AHA and BHA formulations, peels, the list goes on. When did it all get so complicated, and do you really need it all?
The short answer is no. Most people get better results from a small routine done consistently than from a ten-step routine done half the time. Here's how to strip yours back.
Step one: declutter
Get rid of anything you haven't used in ages. This is a bit of a no-brainer, but we all have things lying around that were last touched two years ago. Sure, it may have cost a bit and that's why you're still holding on, but expired products don't work properly and some actively harbour bacteria. You want a staple collection of products that work for you, without clutter getting in the way.
A quick rule: if it's been open longer than the period-after-opening symbol on the packaging (that little open jar icon with "12M" or similar), bin it.
The routine that actually matters
Whatever your skin type, the daily core is the same:
- Cleanse
- Moisturise
- SPF in the morning
- One targeted treatment, if you need it
Weekly extras, if you enjoy them:
- A face mask
- Exfoliating once or twice, depending on your skin type
That's it. Notice what's missing.
Why I don't use toner
Toner is the product I cut first, and here's my reasoning.
If you're using toner to cleanse, a good face wash should already be doing that job. If there's residue left after cleansing, be more thorough or switch cleansers rather than adding a step to mop up after a product that isn't working.
If you're using toner as a treatment, check the label. Many toners contain the same actives you'd find in a serum, like salicylic acid or glycolic acid. If you tone and then follow up with a targeted treatment, you're putting twice the active on your face, which is a fast route to irritation. A dedicated serum is almost always more effective than a toner version of the same ingredient anyway.
There are decent hydrating toners out there, and if yours genuinely earns its place, keep it. But for most people it's a step that costs money and adds nothing.
Simplifying for oily skin
If your skin is oily and your pores clog easily, your goal is keeping pores clear without stripping your skin so hard it produces even more oil.
Cleanse twice a day with something effective but not brutal. Squeaky clean is actually a warning sign, not a goal. If your skin feels tight after washing, your cleanser is too harsh.
Exfoliate with salicylic acid rather than a gritty scrub. Salicylic acid (BHA) is oil-soluble, so it works inside the pore where blackheads actually form. Two to three times a week is plenty to start.
The Ordinary's Salicylic Acid 2% Solution is the one I recommend, it's cheap and it works. We've reviewed it in full if you want the details.
Skip the pore strips. I know they're satisfying, but they don't tackle the root of the problem and repeated use irritates the skin. We've written about why pore strips aren't worth it if you need convincing.
Simplifying for dry skin
If your skin is dry, flaky or constantly tight, the priority flips: protect the oils you have and put moisture back in.
Cleanse with something genuinely gentle. Cetaphil's Gentle Skin Cleanser is a classic for a reason: non-foaming, non-drying and fragrance free, which is exactly what dry and sensitive skin wants.
Moisturise properly, morning and night. This is the most important step for dry skin. Look for ceramides, glycerin or hyaluronic acid on the label. CeraVe and Aveeno both do excellent, affordable options. We've covered our best moisturisers for dry skin separately.
Exfoliate less. Once or twice a week maximum, and go gentle. Strong acids on already-dry skin usually mean more flaking, not less. A mild lactic acid or a soft physical exfoliant is enough.
A quick word on targeted treatments
By targeted treatments I mean serums and actives: anything applied to address a specific concern. BHA for clogged pores, hyaluronic acid for dehydration, vitamin C for dullness, retinol for fine lines.
The minimalist rule here is one at a time. Pick your biggest skin concern, choose one treatment for it, and use it consistently for at least six to eight weeks before judging it. Layering five serums makes it impossible to know what's working, costs a fortune, and multiplies your chances of irritation.
Final word
As always, less is more. By reducing, you're not only making life easier for yourself, you're giving your skin exactly what it needs and nothing it doesn't. A cleanser, a moisturiser, an SPF and one good treatment will outperform a cluttered shelf every time.